JewelOra Stories

Plastic bottles — that environmental bane of a disposable, modern society — can be both an abundant form of pollution in waterways and oceans, as well as a materials source for mind-boggling art. In the skillful hands of Turkish architect and upcycling designer Gülnur Özdağlar the unremarkable PET plastic bottle is transformed into gorgeously diaphanous and functional objects like bowls and wholesale jewelry.

Using simple tools like a candle, scissors and a soldering iron, Özdağlar upcycles bottles into a bewildering range of ephemeral accessories that under the light, look like fantastical, tentacled sea creatures or little undersea treasures. So from this:

… to this:

That’s pretty neat!

Alchemy of upcycling
As TreeHugger Lloyd has mentioned before about how ‘redesign’, not recycling, will be the wave of the future, Özdağlar asserts that large-scale recycling is not the solution, rather

… the real solution is “upcycling” rather than plain recycling. Her aim is to substitute with labour and artistic value the characteristics that the material loses during transformation, thus obtaining a product of higher value. Her aim is also to obtain objects from things that have been discarded that are so beautiful, that we would want to wear or exhibit them, thus underlining the importance of “recycling” and encouraging it.

Özdağlar’s vision for upcycled plastic knows no bounds. Istanbul TreeHugger Jennifer quotes Özdağlar as imagining

… elegant ladies wearing PET wholesale rings, linen covers ornamented with PET shells, the dining tables decorated with PET bowls sitting next to fine china, PET chandeliers taking the place of crystal chandeliers.

Her collection, called Tertium Non Data (a lovely alchemical term referring to the Latin translation of the phrase “the third is not given”) epitomizes how separate elements can be combined and creatively upcycled to create a third, emergent artwork with a new life of its own. Check out more of Özdağlar’s amazing functional art pieces, jewelry on her website. Plus, take a gander at more Turkish green design innovators here on TreeHugger.

Time and patience, it’s said, turn mulberry leaves into silk. For designer Laura Lobdell, whom we first met at Designers & Agents in May, this aphorism is physically manifested in her vividly hued hand-knotted silk bracelets, made by and to benefit disadvantaged young women in Cambodia.

“Knotting the silk,” says Lobdell, “is a light and healing meditation, which becomes part of the rehabilitation process for these remarkable women, along with the empowerment of earning her own livelihood. Each knot is like a seed.”

A rich latticework of deeply colored woven silk threads, Lobdell’s Seeds of Silk are garnished with cultured pearls, gemstones, and handsculpted sterling-silver embellishments shaped like surf-weathered seashells and irregularly formed seeds. Seeds, for the artist, are a poweful metaphor, one that embodies the “essential beginning of change and growth.”

To purchase the $85 bracelets, call or e-mail Lobdell through her Web site.

“Global warming” or “carbon neutrality” aren’t usually the first words that pop to mind when you say “silver jewelry,” but that’s what the BE CARBON NEUTRAL collection of special edition jewelry is going for. Mentioned by TH pal Summer Rayne Oakes on a recent House & Garden magazine video podcast (we mentioned it yesterday), the collection of jewelry is made from reclaimed silver in a carbon-neutral production shop in Manhattan by jewelry designer Anthony Aletto. Featuring a range of jewelry including rings (pictured above), pendants, necklaces, bracelets and more, the purchase of each product results in the neutralization of one month of your carbon emissions.

While TreeHugger agrees that carbon offsets are not a silver bullet-solution to climate change, nor an excuse to cover up your continued pumping of carbon dioxide emissions into the atmosphere at will, we like the business model. Distilling global warming down to a personal level is tough — it’s a big, big problem — so providing tangible context in the form of beautiful jewelry is beneficial to anyone who thinks the problem is too big to deal with and doesn’t know how to help, and to anyone who wants to buy jewelry (and for whom plastic or cork won’t do the job) while considering the planet’s best interests at the same time. Hit the jump for more details and more pics, including what Al Gore looks like wearing a piece from the collection. ::BE CARBON NEUTRAL

In addition to the offsets that come with a purchase, an e-greening guide accompanies each new piece to its new home, in the hopes that it will help inform and inspire its wearer to greater green goodness. The guide to lowering your carbon footprint is based on research done by Green Design, a sustainable design firm, and Live Earth’s Global Warming Survivors Handbook by David de Rothschild (here’s Part 1 and Part 2 of TreeHugger’s interview with David de Rothschild). To this point, attempts to “sex up” global warming, to raise awareness and try to inspire more people take action, have been at least partially unsuccessful. Will jewelry be the way to bring climate change to the masses? Al Gore thinks it might (see below); we’ll have to wait and see if the rest of the world agrees. ::BE CARBON NEUTRAL

There is no end to pretty recycled treasures and baubles we feature on TreeHugger. But if your mom isn’t the type to carry a purse (no matter how chic!) made from inner tubes, or recycled earrings from bottle caps, then we have the ultimate resource —- picked from an influential fashion editor in New York.

A couple of weeks ago, I interviewed Marilyn Kirschner the editor of the fashion insider newsletter LookOnLine.com for the boutique designer jewelry website Gallery Atlantic. Marilyn’s reporting on the all the major fashion events in New York, and I wanted her opinion on some of the most exciting green trends. And — designers— that cater to more of an upscale aesthetic, like Mom’s. Some of Marilyn’s pics are:

Subversive Jewelry’s Justin Giunta. His recycled designs have a “More is More” aesthetic that makes us think of swathes of artfully draped loot, from a pirate’s treasure. Kirschner characterizes Giunta’s jewelry as “Very baroque looking, but very cool and hip.”

Giunta’s necklaces drip with cascades of chains, stranded lockets, brooches, and clusters of enormous faux pearls and improbable beads. This hot designer’s pieces are often featured in the latest fashion shows. Mom will love it.

Natural Jewels by Caboclo Jewellery features objects found on the rainforest floors, handmade by the local artisans of Brazil’s Amazon river region. They use a variety of materials gleaned from the area – the seeds of plants are mixed with stones, bone, fiber, leather, mother-of-pearl and other natural materials – to create one-of-a-kind treasures. Steampunk, Goth and neo Victorian style combine vintage objects from the thrift store and the attic with magical results. Buttons, beads, appliqué, watch mechanisms and retro jewelry are fantastically transformed into delicately tongue-in-cheek works of wearable art that trendy Moms will love.

On the higher end of the green jewelry tree hang Danforth Diamonds, Brilliant Earth, and GreenKarat.

All three companies offer gems that are conflict free and of ethical origin in settings that are recycled from scrap precious metal or post-consumer sources. Danforth Diamonds offers rings that use eco-friendly recycled precious metals “Refined, Not Mined,” and conflict-free diamonds or diamonds sourced from Canada. The Canadian diamonds are mined according to strict standards set out by the government of the Northwest Territories to protect the Arctic environment and the mine workers. The Harmony Recycled Precious Metals are reclaimed from precious metal scrap.

Kathleen Dughi’s work brings complexity and craftsmanship to the high-end jewelry design world. Her work is highly appreciated in the US, but her background and experience comes also from Italy and Switzerland. She refined her style and skills so as to win several important prizes like the Spectrum Award and two Honorable Mentions from De Beers Diamonds International Competition.

About her work Kathleen confessed: “I design for the woman with a strong sense of individual style – the woman who has refined taste and seeks out jewelry that reflects that.” Even if she is regrettably lost, her team of designers continues to design and create wonderful pieces under her name, vision and formation.

This week’s jewelry is a special design by Kara Ross: a jet cuff with semi-precious jewels. It is also a recommendation from Elle Magazine for September 2009. Have a look!

This week’s jewelry is a gorgeous  Moonstone and Diamond ring from 18Kt white gold by Ramon. This fascinating piece is imported from Spain. Moonstone is the one of the three birthstones of June, besides Pearl and Alexandrite.

This beautiful  Wind and Fire Crystal Knock Out Ring from IMAN Global Chic Earth is an impresing item to have in the jewelry wardrobe. Swirling enamel swathes the domed center station of the ring. Metalwork “flames” extend from one side of the jewelry, glistening with pavé-set, round clear crystals. For a touch of colorized sparkle, a pear-cut CZ (approx. 7×5mm) centers the “flames” from a flush setting. Remarkable! Even Angelina Jolie would be enchanted by this ring.

Did you know?

• Aquamarine is a variety of the mineral beryl, just like the emerald, but unlike it, aquamarine is found in large crystals.
• The biggest producer of aquamarines is Brazil, where the stone is quite abundant. Aquamarine is also mined in Nigeria, Zambia, China, India, Australia and US.
• The very best of stones are called Santa Maria, and come from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil.

• Aquamarine is believed to bestow courage, insight, and victory. It also symbolizes youth, fidelity, hope, and health.
• This birthstone can fade upon prolonged exposure to light.
• The etymology of the word comes from Latin, from the words water “aqua” and sea “mare”. Aquamarine is strongly connected through color and symbolism to the bottomless blue of seawater.
• The majority of aquamarines are flawless.

• Ancient Romans believed the gemstone was sacred to Neptune, the god of the sea. The sailors used to ware aquamarine talismans, as protection against dangers at sea.
• They also believed the gem had fallen from the jewel boxes of sirens and washed onto shore.
• Aquamarine is believed to give mental peace and clarity, providing emotional and mental balance. It has been used as an aid in meditation and to assist in self-expression.

• Stones with a clear blue color without green or gray are the most valuable.
• As part of the normal finishing process, some aquamarines are heated to remove traces of yellow.
• Aquamarine is also known for being the anniversary gem for the 19th year of marriage.

• Aquamarine was first discovered in India more than two thousands years ago, people have attributed various magical and spiritual properties to it. The Hindus used it to spark mental clarity and develop public speaking capabilities.
• The majority of aquamarines on the market today are faceted stones, or faceted beads, however they can be cut as cabochons and are known in rare cases to produce an asterism.

Here’s gold suitability for jewelry from the purity point of view:
24 karat = 100% gold
Too soft for jewelry

22 karat = 91.7% gold
Very soft – not recommended for jewelry

18 karat = 75.0% gold
Recommended for fine jewelry

14 karat = 58.3% gold
Recommended for jewelry

12 karat = 50.0% gold
Not acceptable for jewelry

10 karat = 41.7% gold
The legal karat limit considered as real gold in the United States